Pulley injury in the finger would cause very localised pain, and rest, ice, strapping etc. By incorporating proper warm-up and stretching techniques, maintaining proper technique, and balancing training and rest, you can significantly reduce the risk of climbing finger injuries and enhance your overall climbing performance. Also, a specific finger tendon injury can effect the tendons in all fingers right down through the forearm, so general stretching of the whole group is important. Oct 2, 2023 · This session presents a logical approach to the assessment, diagnosis and management of soft-tissue hand injuries in the ED, including suggested indications for early hand specialist referrals. Gradually increase the load taken by the injured finger. This can prevent injury of these tendons or provide a reduced load on the injured A2 tendon whist recocovering form an injury. Feb 28, 2024 · I live in London and am struggling to find a physio who says they understand climbing injuries. Speciality injuries, containing practical advice on best practice for 15 primary care topics base of the finger to achieve full anaesthesia. Tape around a joint can perform this same function by holding the main tendon closer to its joint rather than bowing out during finger contraction. You can injure your thumb and fingers due to a fall, direct blow or overuse. Riskier more intensive training can lead to greater gains but injury can put you out of the game and make you more prone to re-injury. I have some sort of chronic hand injury, and I'm looking for a physio in the Kendal or south lakes area who specialises in that sort of thing. There is loads of writing about pulley injuries out there but it was really hard to get to the bottom of what was wrong with my hand, I wish this article had been available a couple of years ago! May 5, 2021 · Gudmund Grønhaug and Cristiano Costa explain in detail the causes of finger pain in relation to climbing. Finger Injuries are almost certainly the most common injuries climbers face. Raise just the tip of the affected finger off the table and try and push it back down with a finger from the other hand. I contracted a finger injury which sounds similar to this one about 5-6 months back while pulling to hard on a tiny crimp. Understand the types of finger injuries in children, which include a jammed finger or a subungual hematoma. Mar 28, 2002 · In reply to Mark: Stop taping as soon as you can. Got to love UKC, it's a total educational experience Jun 7, 2010 · In general for getting strong fingers without injury is a risk/reward balancing act. Even now i don't like holding Apr 19, 2018 · FactorXXX 19 Apr 2018 In reply to Heike: I actually thought that your injury was caused by a wooden hitty thing and didn't realise that 'mallet finger injury' was an actual medical term. I so often see - and it happened to me - really enthusiastic new climbers really going for it indoors and doing themselves damage because they just don't give their body time to get used to the strains and stresses climbing brings. When the injury is better, stop taping, otherwise the finger 'expects' the tape support, and you will probably injure yourself again if you stop. Dec 6, 2022 · In reply to UKC Articles: Really superb article, thank you. Jun 29, 2016 · I injured the MCP joint on my left index finger about 9 months ago. Reply reply More replies OldmanFrederick • Thumb and finger injury This leaflet will provide information to help you recover from your thumb or finger injury. Use one piece of tape along the front and back of the length of your finger, then with a very thin length of tape, encircle your finger with overlapping turns. A total May 5, 2015 · I had the same injury a few years ago and had pain in the palm under the finger. In this article, climbing coach Robin O'Leary and physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner look at ways to treat and Jan 18, 2016 · Acquiring an injury is a climber's worst nightmare. Aug 8, 2024 · In some cases, a person can treat a mild cut finger at home with first aid. 0207 483 5090. When we do avoid an injury we don't even know that Finger joint injuries are very common in rock climbing due to the nature of the sport. These types of injuries can cause pain, swelling and bruising. If it doesn't, it's a pulley injury. Read about finger injuries, from cuts and scrapes to wounds and broken bones. Taping should only be used as temporary support for injured fingers. Apologies if this is in the wrong forum (which is the right one?) I hurt my index finger about two months ago, and although it's not a bad injury in terms of stopping me climbing, it hasn't got any better and it's pretty annoying. If the injury is relatively minor you can tape over your joints of your injured finger and carry on climbing; forcing this finger to be used only openhanded. Once anaesthesia has been obtained this is a good opportunity to test motor function without pain and asses the true extent of deformity. Climbing requires a lot from our hands. According to ESPN sideline reporter Laura Rutledge, Stroud is dealing with an injury to his throwing hand. Sep 15, 2025 · General Principles The hand is the most frequently injured body part in children The little finger and thumb are the most commonly injured digits Crush injuries are the most common injuries in toddlers Sporting injuries are the most common in older children Most finger fractures if appropriately treated heal without complication Sep 15, 2025 · General Principles The hand is the most frequently injured body part in children The little finger and thumb are the most commonly injured digits Crush injuries are the most common injuries in toddlers Sporting injuries are the most common in older children Most finger fractures if appropriately treated heal without complication Dec 16, 2025 · Finger pain occurs for many reasons, including injuries, arthritis, and various health conditions. In this article, climbing coach Robin O'Leary and physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner look at ways to treat Finger Injuries are almost certainly the most common injuries climbers face. I recommend Joan Warrington, a physio at the Hand and Surgery Unit at the Wellington Hospital. Apr 27, 2014 · Finger joint injuries are very common in rock climbing due to the nature of the sport. Really, it should have healed very quickly had i treated it properly, but i was a little unsure of what was the best course of action (and it was my Easter holidays!). In this extract from The Climbing Bible: Managing Injuries - Injury prevention and rehabilitation for climbing and bouldering, Stian Christophersen explains how to prevent and manage these finger injuries Jan 30, 2024 · Remember, preventing finger injuries is crucial for maintaining a safe and enjoyable climbing experience. Jan 11, 2026 · The Buffalo Bills pulled off a tough Wild Card win over the Jacksonville Jaguars on Sunday, but fans are concerned about the health of quarterback Josh Allen. In this article, climbing coach Robin O'Leary and physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner look at ways to treat Jun 12, 2018 · In reply to Heike: My finger injury is finally better now too. Rest it for a few days ( ice and anti inflamitory ) the massage and stretch frequently for a 10 days - two weeks before climbing again. g. Jan 11, 2026 · Matthew Stafford injury update: Rams QB has sprained right index finger, but expected to play vs. The trick is to ensure your tape doesn't slide off. Any advice gratefully received, thanks! May 16, 2021 · Nail Bed Injuries are the result of direct trauma to the fingertip and can be characterized into subungual hematoma, nail bed laceration, or nail bed avulsion. Mar 5, 2014 · Finger Injuries are almost certainly the most common injuries climbers face. all seems to Nov 29, 2018 · It is well known among climbers that finger injuries are without doubt the most common injury, and this has been reflected in climbing specific literature (Schöffl et al, 2003; 2012; 2015; Jones and Johnson, 2016). Most medical professionals don't understand climbing injuries but she really helped me through a difficult finger injury. As a result of the injury, the fingertip droops. Read more Spanish Jack 29 Nov 2018 In reply to UKC Articles: Apologies if this is in the wrong forum (which is the right one?) I hurt my index finger about two months ago, and although it's not a bad injury in terms of stopping me climbing, it hasn't got any better and it's pretty annoying. We will now look at some common finger injuries in more detail below. I was silly and tried to keep climbing at a level which i shouldnt have. Learn how finger injury compensation amounts for UK based claims may be calculated within this helpful personal injury claims guide. It's hard to hear but you really don't want to screw this up by climbing too soon or it could become a chronic As women are being criminally under-represented in finger tendon injury photos on climbing forums, I encourage women to post their finger tendon injury photos in the thread below which can then be submitted to the article. In this article, climbing coach Robin O'Leary and physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner look at ways to treat Apr 11, 2003 · They hold the primary finger tendons close to their respective joints. We cannot stop all injuries. Contact us today for free advice. There is loads of writing about pulley injuries out there but it was really hard to get to the bottom of what was wrong with my hand, I wish this article had been available a couple of years ago! Was climbing at the wall earlier, and heard a noticeable 'crack' in my ring finger (on the first segment from my palm - A2 pulley?). We will focus on shoulder impingements, elbow tendinopathy and finger strains – pulleys and tendons. But climbers themselves can do a lot to minimize their risk of injury. Mar 19, 2014 · Finger Injuries are almost certainly the most common injuries climbers face. Describing the injury is not easy, because it is only apparent in a specific movement. . Continue stretching and massaging. Finger injuries in athletes include UCL injuries, also known as skier's or gamekeeper's thumb, as well as sprain, strains and dislocations. Learn how to treat this injury and when to seek emergency help. From a specialist hand physio who teated me once: PLace your hand on a table, palm upwards. It is often caused by catching the finger “end-on” during sport, but it sometimes results from a minor injury such as catching the finger when tucking in bed sheets. When the rest of my hand is straight, and I just bend my fingers from the knucle joint, my middle finger is unable to touch the palm of my hand, leaving about a 1cm gap, between my finger and the palm of my hand, whereas the rest of my fingers can do so without hardly streching. Hopefully someone here can help. Unstable injuries will require fixation with k-wires, screws and or external fixator devices. It doesn't stop me from climbing but is taking a lot longer to heal than I thought. Learn the signs & treatment for finger injuries. I have what I'm pretty sure is synovitis/capsulitis in my right hand ring finger. Learn about finger injury compensation amounts in UK claims with our helpful personal injury compensation guide. May 5, 2021 · Article Finger Injuries - What's Causing the Pain? Gudmund Grønhaug and Cristiano Costa explain in detail the causes of finger pain in relation to climbing. Bears Los Angeles' quarterback avoided the worst-case scenario ahead of the divisional round 2 days ago · Here is more on what happened to Rams QB Matthew Stafford's finger in the Wild Card win over the Panthers. The only style of taping that I think is of any benefit is buddy taping to a neighbour finger such that the use of the injured finger is limited. The broadcast showed a replay of Stroud’s hand hitting the helmet of center Jake 1 day ago · Atlanta Braves shortstop Ha-Seong Kim will miss opening day after undergoing surgery to repair a torn tendon in his right middle finger, the team announced Sunday. Find out how to make a finger injury claim and see if you're eligible to pursue compensation in this helpful guide. Mallet finger injuries are caused by damage to the tendon or the bony attachment of the tendon, which normally allows you to straighten the tip of your finger. As others say, some deep massage of the palm and up over the finger in small circular motions really helps to loosen things up, but only once the swelling is down, which should be the case after a month. Hand finger injury compensation UK 2025 valuations depend on multiple medical and legal factors including digit affected (thumb most valuable at £31,000-£48,000 complete loss versus little finger £3,400-£14,300), injury mechanism, surgical requirements, functional recovery prospects, dominant hand involvement attracting 25-40% compensation Sep 5, 2025 · A comprehensive treatment plan, written by a physical therapist and based on evidence-based research, to heal a climbing finger injury. is good advice. In this article, climbing coach Robin O'Leary and physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner look at ways to treat Mar 13, 2011 · I'm interested in people's experiences of minor finger pulley injuries and recovery times. I was finger-locking thumb down and did something to the 2nd (midfinger) knuckle of my index finger. Most seem like general physios and I'm presuming, maybe wrongly, that its best to get someone experienced with finger injuries. It's not one of the regular climbing finger injuries so am struggling to find any advice on the web. Jun 5, 2025 · Make a claim for a finger injury at work. , eating/dressing, as it can make them stronger and so help your finger/thumb back to full function, flexibility and strength. Jul 6, 2021 · Find out about climbers finger and other injuries in climbers. 3% of those who have had a climbing injury in the last 6 months reported a finger-related injury. There was no audible popping or any great trauma at the time Apr 22, 2017 · Once you've healed the finger up I advise putting together a small routine of fingerboarding to get the fingers strong and prevent further injury. Learn how to manage these injuries to continue enjoying the sport of climbing. However you could end up making your injury worse. I think it was caused as a result of campussing. Think this is common in an A2 or more likely an A1 pulley injury. This can damage the ligaments and tendons that help to support and move the small joints. Now with worsening OA I tape the main fingers individually with the H method every time I climb, still warm up slowly, stretch fingers out straight often, and regularly (incl on days between sessions) use chilling in ice cold water to stimulate blood flow into the fingers. If it hurts, it's a tendon injury. In this article, climbing coach Robin O'Leary and physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner look at ways to treat and prevent damaged fingers Dec 6, 2022 · In reply to UKC Articles: Really superb article, thank you. I injured my ring finger A2 pulley last Tuesday - no obvious cause, it had been a bit sore for a few weeks and was sore to touch Wednesday morning. Anyway the real reason I was posting is to say that despite the initial frustration, I think being injured Dec 9, 2022 · ARTICLE: Finger Care for Climbers Climber and physiotherapist Andrew McVittie shares some tips to keep your fingers healthy Why do I need to exercise my finger after an injury? It is important that you start to move your fingers/thumb as soon as possible especially for simple things e. Assuming that it's not the pulley at the tip that's wrecked Sep 8, 2009 · Taping If you must climb with broken or worn skin, use finger tape to cover the injury whilst climbing. I couldn't close it into a fist and crimping movement were sore/painful. The aspect of my technique that needed sorting was not crimps – I overhand almost everything – but when pulling up hard on slopers my middle finger began to bend (crimp) whereas the other fingers remained open-hand. Sep 19, 2022 · Rock climbing is by nature tough on the fingers. Finger, hand and wrist exercises for sprains and injury Department of Physiotherapy Last reviewed: December 2023 Next review: December 2026 Information for Patients Leaflet number: 988 Version: 1 A mallet finger injury is a tear of tendon that straightens the end joint of the finger. Injured my finger the other day,nothing new but different to how I've injured it before. I have partnered up with well known physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner to help illustrate these injuries and exercises. Start on slab to vertical climbs with big holds. I heard a loud snap/pop sound and felt something go in my ring finger and immediately fell off. I stopped climbing right after and have came home and soaked it in some cold water for awhile. If you have a finger injury, or thumb injury which was caused by third party negligence, call us today to see if you could be entitled to claim compensation. Try and participate in normal activities such as dressing, washing and eating but be cautious of gripping and lifting heavy objects as this may aggravate your symptoms in the early stages. Elbow injuries (tendonitis) are arguably the most common along with finger injuries. Feel free to drop me a PM if you want some advice on building into fingerboarding for strength as opposed to rehab. Sep 4, 2009 · Tape the finger up as well. Fingers are the most common place to have an injury or develop pain in climbing. Mar 5, 2014 · Finger Injuries are almost certainly the most common injuries climbers face. if I stretch my finger out straight it hurts like hell and bending from fully straight hurts just for the initial part of the bend. May 5, 2021 · Gudmund Grønhaug and Cristiano Costa explain in detail the causes of finger pain in relation to climbing. Injuries are so multi-factoral we can only talk about injury reduction, not prevention. How To Start A Claim For A Finger Injury Or Injured Thumb? advisable as it is important for you to move your hand and fingers from the early stages of your injury to prevent stiffness. 3% of those who have had a climbing injury Dec 6, 2022 · But it is also no surprise that fingers are commonly injured, accounting for around 40% of all climbing related injuries. No swelling or bruising. The small finger joints handle a lot of different stresses and strains while climbing. Exactly - prevention better than cure and all that. I don't know if anyone has had success training the fingers around an injured finger but from this experience I'd suggest it's probably not a good idea. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Oct 17, 2024 · Growth plate injuries are a serious risk for young climbers. Nov 29, 2018 · Finger injuries can be put into 3 general categories: Acute Finger Injuries (minor and major) Chronic (long term) injuries Adolescent finger injuries Acute finger injuries The first thing to think about is how the finger has been injured and does something need to be done about it sooner rather than later. Most of all, listen to your body, when I did a pulley it was on a 2 finger pocket on my fingerboard, avoiding anything other than 4 finger holds for the injured hand allowed me to continue climbing without any further pain and I made a full recovery. A total of 41. Jan 23, 2018 · Injury happened when pulling hard in crimp position in a pocket that was at about waist-height on a slightly overhanging wall. Here are 27 possible causes, their symptoms, and treatment. If your employer caused the accident and injury, you could claim against them FRACTURES General Principles Most fractures are stable and can be treated by a short Period of immobilisation and then rapid mobilisation with two-finger strapping clinical examination should differentiate STABLE and Unstable injuries. Climbing is considered a pulling sport. finger is ok when ben or partially bend and I can crimp of but open handing hurts. Check out Dave MacLeod' site for some good advice on this injury. Causes of finger injuries can be from playing sports (jammed finger) to a broken finger or amputated finger. Object Moved This document may be found here May 7, 2021 · As women are being criminally under-represented in finger tendon injury photos on climbing forums, I encourage women to post their finger tendon injury photos in the thread below which can then be submitted to the article. Finger injuries are painfull - but generally quick to heal. No matter how insignificant it may appear to non-climbers - "A finger injury?!" - not being able to do what you love can bring on intense emotions: anger, frustration, tears and in severe cases, injury can lead to depression. As a result, as I moved up on a hold the stress through the middle finger went up loads. Resist all temptation to "test" the injury. doesn't seem to be any swelling. A semantic point perhaps, but an important distinction. I did something much more minor (mild collateral ligament sprain I think), but it took ages to heal (did it end of Jan, and only fully healed by end of May), as I kept re-injuring it, until I finally discovered buddy taping. There was a little pain immediately afterward and slight swelling (iced and ibuprofened). Here we’ll walk you through what you need to know to help understand what’s wrong, why Jun 24, 2024 · Learn how finger injury compensation claims are made and when you could have an eligible case. The most common injuries seen in our sport are A2 flexor pulley strains, and when not diagnosed and treated correctly, a simple strain can keep you off the rock for months.

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